Hardboard Furniture
One very versatile artificial paneling material is hardboard. Usually quite smooth on one side and screened on the reverse, hardboard is made of wood chips that have been separated into individual fibers then bonded under heat and pressure into sheets of dense wood fiber. For added moisture resistance and strength, some hardboard is tempered with thermal-setting materials baked into place.
Hardboard comes in dark brow, gray, or blond; plain, striated, or perforated. Thicknesses range from 1/10 to 5/16-inch. The thinner types are extremely flexible, and the thicker types can be bent by making a few saw cuts on the reverse side of the bend.
Hardboard's density makes it one of the most dent-resistant of all the panel products - excellent for flat areas that must take wear. The smooth finish is ideal for painting, and will not check or split in weather. Because the fibers are not aligned, the board has strength in all directions.
Problems with hardboard include its inability to hold nails or screws securely; the fact that it expands and contracts with changes in moisture (presenting problems with joints); and its sometimes cold, hard appearance.
In addition to regular hardboard and the two types listed below, you can buy numerous types, such as striated or combed-finish hardboard; plastic-coated types simulating tile, marble, wood grain, and leather; corrugated hardboard; pre-stained hardboard; and painted hardboard.
Perforated hardboard is one of the most popular varieties. It is very good for sliding cabinet doors and stereo-cabinet backs, as it allows air to circulate; or, it can be used for a "hang-up" storage wall (a wide variety of specially-sized hooks and supports that fit into the perforations are available at hardware stores).
Wood particle or "flake boards" are made from particles of wood rather than from refined wood fibers. Chips give a speckled appearance, in contrast to the smooth look of ordinary hardboard. They are made in thicknesses varying from ¼-inch paneling material up to ¾-inch boards for more structural uses. Particle boards are made from a number of different wood species including redwood, maple, cedar, pine, fir, and a combination of pine and fir.
You can work hardboard with ordinary shop tools. When hand sawing, use an 8 to 12 teeth-per-inch handsaw and cut at a fairly flat angle. When cutting with a power saw, use a low-set carbide-tipped combination or crosscut blade - adjusted so that only two or three teeth show through hardboard while cutting. Always cut hardboard with the smooth face up.
Edges can be worked with a shallow-set, sharp plane; a file or rasp (worked lengthwise); or sandpaper. If sanding causes edges to "fuzz-up," control them with a wash coat of shellac before final dressing. Panel surfaces should not be sanded.
Most hardboard can be painted, enameled, stained, waxed, varnished, or lacquered. Unless the material you buy is specially treated and requires no prime coat, always use a good sealer or primer for both interior and exterior work.
Before you paint hardboard, apply one coat of a pigmented or clear resin or penetrating sealer. For a natural finish, you can apply a clear sealer before the wax, lacquer, or varnish finish in order to reduce darkening of the wood.
When working with particle of flake boards, you may want to use a wood paste filler to insure a smooth finish for such items as table and desk tops. Follow the manufacturer's directions in applying the filler, then sand for a perfectly smooth surface. For natural or stained finishes, use transparent paste filler. Don't use steel wool on untreated particle-finish panels. The fine threads may catch on the individual wood fibers or chips exposed on the surface.
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